Look, hanging an exterior door isn't brain surgery, but mess it up and you'll regret it every time the wind howls or rain sneaks in. I learned this the hard way when my first attempt left a half-inch gap at the threshold. Freezing drafts all winter! Today, I'll walk you through exactly how to hang an exterior door properly, avoiding the mistakes I made. Whether you're replacing an old door or installing in a new frame, this covers everything from tool choices to weatherproofing tricks professionals use.

Why Bother Doing This Right?

Think about what exterior doors face: rain pounding against them, summer sun warping the wood, temperature swings making materials expand and contract. A poorly hung door means:

• Drafts hiking your energy bills (studies show gaps can increase heating costs by 10-15%)
• Water rotting your frame and flooring
• Security risks from weak alignment
• That annoying sticking every humid morning

Honestly, if you're going to tackle hanging an exterior door, do it thoroughly. Half-measures cost more long-term.

Gathering Your Gear: What You Actually Need

Forget those fluffy "basic tools" lists online. Here's the real deal based on installing seven exterior doors in my old Victorian house:

Don't cheap out on screws. Those flimsy ones in the door packaging? Toss 'em. I used them once and had to rehang the entire door after six months when hinges loosened.

Step-by-Step: Hanging That Door Correctly

Prepping the Rough Opening

Remove the old door? Easy. Prepping the space? That's where most screw up. Scrape off ALL old caulk and debris – even tiny bits prevent proper sealing. Measure diagonally both ways to ensure the opening is square. Difference more than 1/4 inch? Shim during framing. Check for rot with a screwdriver – poke wood around the sill. Soft spots mean cutting out and replacing framing.

Truth time: I skipped rot-checking once. Had to tear out the entire installation two years later when the sill crumbled. $200 mistake.

Setting the Threshold Properly

This is make-or-break for weatherproofing. Slope it 1/8 inch per foot away from the house. Use exterior-grade silicone caulk under the sill plate before anchoring. Position the sill higher than the exterior surface to prevent water pooling. I learned this after my first door flooded the entryway during a storm.

Hanging the Door Itself

Here's how to hang an exterior door without losing your sanity:

• Set door in opening with 1/4" clearance at top/sides
• Slide shims behind hinge locations (focus on top hinge first)
• Level across door top, adjust shims until perfect
• Plumb hinge side using levels on both faces
• Predrill screw holes to prevent splitting
• Secure hinge-side jamb with 3" screws through shims

Don't overtighten screws immediately! You'll need to fine-tune later.

Adjusting and Sealing

Test swing the door. Binding at the top? Add shims near middle hinge. Gap at top? Remove shims. Once it swings freely:

1. Secure latch-side jamb with shims every 16 inches
2. Install weatherstripping in jamb groove
3. Caulk exterior joints with elasticized sealant (I like Sikaflex)
4. Apply door-bottom sweep or threshold seal

Skip weatherstripping once. Could literally see daylight through the gap. My heating bill that month... oof.

Critical Checks Before Calling It Done

When you think you've finished hanging the exterior door, run these tests:

• Draft Test: Hold a candle near edges on windy day - flickering means gaps
• Water Test: Spray hose at sealed areas for 5 minutes - check interior for moisture
• Paper Test: Close door on dollar bill - should have slight resistance when pulling

Top 5 Mistakes People Make Hanging Exterior Doors

After helping neighbors fix botched jobs, these errors keep appearing:

1. Ignoring Frame Prep: Installing over rotten wood guarantees failure
2. Under-Shimming: Doors settle over time - inadequate support causes sagging
3. Wrong Fasteners: Drywall screws snap under stress - use structural screws
4. Poor Threshold Sloping: Flat sills trap water leading to rot
5. Rushing Weatherseals: Gaps under 1/16 inch leak air like sieves

Real User Questions Answered

Special Situations You Might Encounter

Brick/Masonry Openings: Use masonry anchors instead of screws. Drill slowly with carbide bits to prevent cracking.
Steel Doors: They're heavy! Reinforce hinge screws with steel plates. Magnetic weatherstripping works better.
Fiberglass Doors: Expand less than wood but require specialized trim routers for adjustments.

Remember that exterior door hanging isn't just about following steps - it's anticipating problems. That slight bow in the jamb? Those uneven stone steps? Address them early. Take photos during disassembly if replacing an old door. Reference points help immensely. And seriously, buy extra shims. You'll always need more.

Last thought: If your opening is wildly out of square or shows major rot, hire this out. Some battles aren't worth fighting. But if you've got reasonable conditions, mastering how to hang an exterior door saves thousands and delivers serious satisfaction every time you walk through it.