Let me be real for a second. You finally got that sleek wall mounted TV up, stepped back to admire your handiwork... and bam. Those dang cords. Snaking down the wall, looking messy, ruining the whole clean look you were going for. It drives me nuts too. My first attempt? Total fail. Used one of those flimsy cable covers, and it popped off the wall within a week. Not great. Figuring out how to hide cords on wall mounted TV setups feels like the final boss battle in home theater setup. Everyone wants that cable-free look, but getting there? That's the tricky part. And honestly, there's no single right answer – it depends on your wall, your gear, your budget, and how handy you are.
Why bother? Well, besides looking way better, loose cords are dust magnets and trip hazards. Kids or pets (looking at you, mischievous cats) might tug on them. And let's be honest, tangled wires just scream "unfinished project." This guide cuts through the noise. We'll ditch the jargon and marketing fluff. I'll walk you through every legit method I've personally tested or professionally installed over the years, from super simple peel-and-stick solutions right up to cutting drywall. We'll talk cost, tools needed, how long it takes, and whether you need to call a pro. I'll even throw in some mistakes I made so you can avoid them. Let's finally solve that "how to hide cords on wall mounted TV" headache once and for all.
Before You Start: Stuff You Absolutely Need to Know
Jumping straight to hiding those cords is tempting. But hold up. Skipping this part is like building a house on sand. Mess this up, and your "solution" could be ugly, unsafe, or just plain not work. Trust me, I learned some of this the hard way.
First biggie: **Safety First. Always.** Electricity isn't something to play guessing games with. You absolutely cannot run a standard power cord inside your wall. Nope. Not ever. It's a major fire hazard against building codes pretty much everywhere. That cheap extension cord you thought about hiding? Forget it. The only safe way to run power inside a wall is using specific in-wall power extension kits (like those from PowerBridge or Legrand) that are UL-rated for that exact purpose. They use proper in-wall rated cable. This is non-negotiable. Signal cables (HDMI, coax, ethernet) are generally okay inside walls if they are CL2/CL3 rated (check the cable jacket – it'll say so). These are fire-resistant. If you rent? Your options are way more limited. Landlords usually frown on you cutting holes or running permanent wires. Stick to surface solutions unless you have explicit written permission.
Pro Tip: The Renters Dilemma
If you're renting, focus like a laser on non-damaging solutions. Cord covers you can paint, raceways with strong adhesive strips designed for removable use (like some 3M options), or even clever furniture placement are your best bets. Getting your deposit back is more important than permanently hiding every wire!
Next, take a serious look at your **Wall Type.** What's behind that TV? Drywall is pretty forgiving and easy to work with. Plaster? Much harder – it cracks easily, and patching is an art form. Concrete or brick? Forget cutting channels; you'll need surface-mounted solutions. Feeling the wall near an outlet? Is it hollow? That usually means open stud bays, which is good news for routing cables downward. If it feels solid, you might be hitting a fireblock (a horizontal piece of wood between studs) – that complicates running cables down to an outlet below.
Then, **Audit Your Cables.** Seriously, get under there with a flashlight. What exactly needs hiding?
- Power Cord: The big one. Needs special handling (remember the safety lecture?).
- HDMI Cable(s): Usually one or more going to a soundbar, game console, streaming box, etc.
- Coax Cable: If you have cable TV or an antenna.
- Ethernet Cable: For a wired internet connection to the TV or a device.
- Optical Audio Cable: Sometimes used for soundbars.
- Speaker Wires: If you have surround sound.
Count them. Measure the distance roughly from the TV to where the outlet/equipment is. This tells you how much cable slack you have and how bulky your bundle will be. Thick HDMI cables take up more space than thin ethernet cords.
Lastly, be brutally honest about your **DIY Skill Level & Budget.** Are you comfortable cutting drywall, fishing wires, and patching? Or does the thought of that send shivers down your spine? Your skill level drastically narrows your options. Budget matters too. A simple $20 cord cover kit is very different from a $150 in-wall power kit plus professional installation. I once underestimated the cost of a clean in-wall job and ended up with a half-finished mess for weeks. Be realistic.
All the Ways to Win: How to Hide Cords on Wall Mounted TV (From Easiest to Hardest)
Alright, let's get into the meat of it. Here’s the rundown of every effective method I know for tackling those cords behind your wall mounted TV. I've tried most of these myself in various houses and setups.
1. The Simple Cord Cover / Raceway
This is the entry-level solution. Think of it like a plastic or metal tunnel that sticks onto your wall. You bundle the cords, stuff them inside the channel, and snap on the cover. Done. I used a basic white plastic one in my first apartment because, well, landlord rules.
Good Stuff
- Super Easy: Seriously, peel, stick, load cables, snap shut. Minimal tools needed (maybe a level and a pencil).
- Cheap: Basic kits start around $15-$30.
- No Damage: Usually uses strong adhesive strips. Good for renters!
- Painting: Most plastic ones can be painted to match your wall color.
Not-So-Good Stuff
- Visible: It hides the cords *inside*, but you still see the cover *on* the wall. It's a clean line, but it's still there.
- Adhesive Failures: On textured walls or in humid areas (like behind a TV that gets warm), they can peel off over time. Cleaning the wall surface well before applying is crucial.
- Bulk: If you have a lot of cords, you might need a wider, more noticeable channel.
Doing It Right
- Clean the Wall: Wipe down with rubbing alcohol. Seriously. Dust and grease kill adhesive.
- Measure & Level: Plan the path down to the outlet. Use a level! A crooked raceway looks way worse than visible cords.
- Bundle Neatly: Use velcro ties *inside* the channel to keep cables tidy and prevent bulging.
- Corners: Get the specific corner pieces for a clean look; don’t try to bend the channel sharply.
Cord Cover / Raceway Types Quick Look
| Type | Best For | Cost Estimate | Looks | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Basic Plastic (Snap-On) | Quick fix, renters, low cord count | $15 - $35 | Functional, can be painted | Check adhesive strength |
| Metal (Screw Mount) | Permanent solution, more cords | $25 - $60 | More streamlined, modern | Requires small screws, sturdier |
| Paintable Flexible Tube | Irregular walls, going around small obstacles | $20 - $40 | Blends best when painted | Can be trickier to stuff cables into |
| Decorative Raceway | Where it might be more visible | $35 - $75+ | Woodgrain, colors, designed to look nicer | Costs more, but less "utility" look |
My take? It works. It's not invisible, but it's infinitely better than dangling spaghetti wires. Best for straightforward vertical runs behind the TV. If you're wondering "how to hide cords on wall mounted TV without breaking the bank or my lease," this is often the starting point.
2. Using the TV Mount Itself (The Low-Profile Trick)
Some TV wall mounts are smarter than others. Pay attention to the design. Better mounts (like some Sanus models) often have a bit of space *between* the mount arms and the wall plate. This creates a narrow channel. You can sometimes route thinner cables (like HDMI or power) down *behind* the mount arms before they disappear down the wall. It doesn't hide the entire bundle, but it neatly tucks the initial drop out of sight directly behind the TV.
Good Stuff
- Free if your mount allows: Uses the hardware you already have.
- Cleaner Start: Gets the cords disappearing immediately behind the TV.
- No Added Hardware: Doesn't require buying extra stuff.
Not-So-Good Stuff
- Limited Capacity: Only hides a few thin cables usually.
- Depends Heavily on Mount Design: Not all mounts have this gap.
- Partial Solution: You still need another method to hide the main run down the wall.
Check your mount's manual or look closely at the design. If there's a gap, use velcro straps to *neatly* bundle the cables and route them through that channel before they start their descent. This pairs perfectly with the cord cover method below it.
3. Going Behind the Drywall (The In-Wall Solution)
This is the holy grail: TV on the wall, *zero* visible wires. Power, HDMI, everything disappears *inside* the wall cavity. It looks phenomenal. But it's also the most involved method and requires careful attention to safety, especially for power.
Here’s the core idea: You cut precise holes behind the TV and near your outlet below (or where your AV equipment sits). You then run the cables safely *inside* the wall cavity between the studs. For power, **YOU MUST USE** an in-wall rated power extension kit.
⚠️ Power Cable Safety - Read This Twice ⚠️
**Standard power cords CANNOT run inside walls.** It violates electrical code and is a serious fire risk. You legally and safely *must* use a kit like Legrand's Plug-In Power Kit or PowerBridge's Single or Dual Power Kit. These kits include:
- A special in-wall rated power cable (often 14/2 or 12/2 gauge, UL-listed for in-wall use).
- An outlet "recessed box" that mounts *inside* the wall behind the TV.
- A "power module" recessed box near your floor outlet where it plugs in.
- Sometimes includes low-voltage passthrough ports for HDMI/coax.
These kits create a safe, code-compliant way to get power *up* the wall *inside* the wall. Signal cables (CL2/CL3 rated HDMI, coax, ethernet) *can* run alongside this special power cable inside the wall cavity.
The Step-by-Step (Simplified)
- Turn Off Power: At the circuit breaker! Verify it's off with a voltage tester.
- Locate Studs: Use a stud finder. Find the studs around your TV mount and near the lower outlet. You need to avoid them or work around them.
- Cut Holes: Carefully cut holes using a drywall saw:
- One high hole directly behind the TV mount location (large enough for the power kit's outlet box and connectors).
- One low hole near your existing floor power outlet.
- Install Recessed Boxes: Secure the provided power kit boxes into the holes.
- Run the Power Cable: Fish the special in-wall power cable from the top box down to the bottom box. This is often the trickiest part, needing fish tape or rods, especially if there are fireblocks.
- Connect Power: At the bottom box, plug the power cable module into your existing wall outlet. Secure it in the box. At the top box, connect the female receptacle where your TV plug will go. Secure it.
- Run Low-Voltage Cables: Fish your CL2/CL3 rated HDMI, coax, ethernet cables from the top hole down to where your equipment is (could be the bottom hole, or a separate hole near your media console). Use cable passthrough brackets or brush plates.
- Terminate & Plug In: Connect all cables to your TV and equipment.
- Patch & Paint: Secure any brush plates or low-voltage brackets. Patch drywall around the main power boxes if needed (some kits include paintable covers), and repaint.
Good Stuff
- Truly Invisible: Creates a flawless, professional look.
- Maximum Safety (When Done Right): Uses code-compliant methods for power.
- Permanent & Secure: Won't peel off or sag.
Not-So-Good Stuff
- Most Involved: Requires cutting drywall, fishing wires, basic electrical understanding.
- Costly: Power kits cost $80-$200+. Plus tools, wall plates, cables.
- Time-Consuming: Can take a full day or weekend, especially for beginners.
- Worst-Case Scenario: Finding unexpected obstacles (metal plates, pipes, complex framing) can turn it into a nightmare. I hit a fireblock once that wasn't on the stud finder... took hours to deal with.
- Not Renter Friendly: Requires significant wall modification.
Essential Tools & Materials
Must-Haves
- In-Wall Power Extension Kit (Legrand, PowerBridge, etc.)
- CL2/CL3 Rated Cables (HDMI, etc.)
- Stud Finder
- Drywall Saw
- Fish Tape or Fiberglass Rods
- Voltage Tester
- Screwdrivers
- Drill & Bits
Nice-to-Haves
- Low-Voltage Cable Pass-Through Brackets / Brush Plates
- Drywall Patching Kit / Spackle & Tape
- Sandpaper
- Paint & Brush/Roller
- Flashlight/Headlamp
- Utility Knife
- Wire Strippers (if terminating cables)
| Component | Cost Range | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| In-Wall Power Kit (Basic) | $80 - $120 | Essential for safe power. Includes cable & boxes. |
| CL2/CL3 HDMI Cable (10ft) | $15 - $50+ | Depends on speed (HDMI 2.1 costs more). |
| Brush Plates / Low Volt Brackets | $5 - $20 each | For neat entry/exit points for signal cables. |
| Drywall Repair Supplies | $10 - $30 | Patch, tape, spackle, sandpaper. |
| Paint | $15 - $40 | Match existing wall color. |
| Estimated Total (DIY) | $125 - $260+ | Highly variable based on setup. |
| Professional Installation | $250 - $600+ | Worth it if DIY feels overwhelming. |
Is this the ultimate answer on how to hide cords on wall mounted TV setups? Visually, yes. But it's a commitment. If you're not confident with drywall and wiring, hiring a qualified low-voltage tech or electrician familiar with these kits is a very smart investment.
4. Hiding with Furniture & Décor (The Sneaky Approach)
Not everyone can (or wants to) mess with walls. Sometimes furniture and a bit of creativity is the easiest route for hiding cords on a wall mounted TV. The goal is to block the view of the cord bundle as it drops behind furniture.
Here's what can work:
- The Tall Media Console: Place a console table or entertainment center directly below the TV, tall enough that the bottom of the TV is close to the top of the furniture. Route cords straight down behind it. The furniture hides the entire drop.
- Decorative Screen or Room Divider: Position a narrow, attractive screen just behind the console, covering the gap between the console and the wall where cords might be visible.
- Wall Art / Tapestry: Hang a piece of canvas art, a textile, or even a tall, narrow bookcase slightly offset to the side of the TV, positioned to block the view of the cord path. Sounds weird, but it can work in eclectic spaces.
- Plants! A tall, bushy floor plant (like a Fiddle Leaf Fig or Monstera) placed strategically below and beside the TV can visually break up the cord line.
- Cord-Wrapping Décor: Use a decorative object on the console and neatly wrap the cord bundle around its base before it plugs in.
Good Stuff
- Zero Wall Damage: Perfect for renters or those wary of DIY.
- Flexible & Movable: Easily rearrange if needed.
- Adds Style: Integrates cord hiding into your décor.
- Potentially Cheap: Use furniture/items you already own.
Not-So-Good Stuff
- Not Truly Hidden: Cords are obscured, not eliminated. You might see them if you look from certain angles.
- Space Dependent: Requires the right furniture placement and room layout.
- Can Look Cluttered: If not done carefully, adding décor can make things look busier.
This approach relies on optical tricks. I used a tall, narrow bookshelf beside my media console once. From the main sofa, you couldn't see the cords at all dropping behind it. From the kitchen, you could catch a glimpse. It wasn't perfect, but it was cheap and effective enough for that room.
5. Cable Management Kits (The Organizer)
These kits (like popular ones from J Channel or simple adhesive cord clips) don't *hide* cords in the sense of making them disappear. Instead, they *manage* them. They bundle cables neatly together and secure them tightly against the back of the TV mount arms or along a very short, discreet path behind the TV itself. The goal is to prevent loose dangling and create a single, less noticeable bundle dropping straight down.
Good Stuff
- Very Cheap: Often under $10-$15.
- Super Simple: Just stick clips or wrap sleeves.
- Tidy: Reduces visual chaos significantly.
- Works Behind TV: Mostly keeps cords organized where you don't easily see them.
Not-So-Good Stuff
- Doesn't Hide the Drop: The bundle going down the wall is still fully visible.
- Limited Usefulness: Only really cleans up the immediate area behind the TV. Doesn't solve the wall run.
- Adhesive Issues: Clips can fall off if the adhesive isn't great or on textured surfaces.
Think of this as Step Zero. Before you choose a *hiding* method, use one of these kits to neatly bundle the cords behind the TV. It makes any subsequent hiding method (like a raceway) easier and cleaner. It's not a standalone solution for hiding the wall run, but it's a crucial supporting act. Every time I install a TV, I use velcro straps behind it first, regardless of what else I'm doing.
Okay, Which Method Should *YOU* Pick? Let's Break It Down
Choosing the right way to hide cords on your wall mounted TV isn't one-size-fits-all. It depends on your situation. Here's a quick cheat sheet:
| Situation / Priority | Best Method(s) | Why? |
|---|---|---|
| Renting an Apartment/House | Cord Cover/Raceway, Furniture/Decor, Cable Management Kit | Minimal or no wall damage. Removable. Landlord friendly. |
| Budget Under $50 | Cord Cover/Raceway, Cable Management Kit, Furniture/Decor (if you have items) | Most cost-effective solutions. |
| Want Totally Invisible Cords (Own Home) | In-Wall Solution (with Power Kit) | Only method achieving true invisibility. |
| Limited DIY Skills / Time | Cord Cover/Raceway, Furniture/Decor, Cable Management Kit | Easiest to install. Minimal tools needed. |
| Willing to Hire a Pro | In-Wall Solution (with Power Kit) | Get professional results without the DIY hassle. |
| Concrete/Brick Walls | Cord Cover/Raceway (screw-mounted metal best), Furniture/Decor | Cutting channels is impractical/expensive. Surface solutions are key. |
| Lots of Cables (Soundbar, Game Consoles, etc.) | In-Wall Solution (large kit), Wide Cord Cover/Raceway | Need capacity for thick bundles. In-wall handles bulky cables best. |
Still stuck? Ask yourself these questions: * "How much am I willing to spend?" * "How handy am I *really*?" * "Do I own this place, or am I renting?" * "What's behind my wall? (Drywall, plaster, brick?)" * "How many cords do I need to hide?" * "Is 'totally invisible' worth significant effort/cost, or is 'neat and tidy' enough?"
My living room? In-wall. Looks pro. My guest bedroom? A paintable plastic raceway. Does the job just fine for how often it's used.
Questions People Always Ask About Hiding TV Cords
Can I just shove the power cord behind the drywall without a special kit?
**NO. Absolutely not.** This is incredibly dangerous and violates electrical codes. Standard power cords are not rated for the heat build-up that can happen inside walls and pose a serious fire hazard. Always use a UL-listed in-wall power extension kit.
What cables CAN I safely run inside the wall?
Low-voltage signal cables are generally safe if they have a **CL2 or CL3 rating** printed on the cable jacket. This includes most modern HDMI cables (check the label!), speaker wire, ethernet (Cat5e/6/6a), and coaxial cable. This rating means they are fire-resistant.
What tools do I really need for the in-wall method?
Minimum: Stud finder, drywall saw, screwdriver, drill, in-wall power kit, CL2/CL3 cables, fish tape/rods, voltage tester, pencil, level. Nice-to-have: Drywall repair kit, cable pass-through plates, utility knife, flashlight, wire strippers.
Can I paint cord covers to match my wall?
**Most plastic and flexible cord covers can be painted.** Lightly sand them first with fine sandpaper for better adhesion. Use a spray paint designed for plastic (like Krylon Fusion). Metal covers usually come in colors or can be painted too. Check the manufacturer's instructions first.
How do I hide cords if my TV is above a fireplace?
Fireplaces are tricky! Often the mantel is deep, but the wall above might be brick or have a chimney chase. Options: * **In-wall:** Only feasible if there's usable cavity *beside* the fireplace chase (check structure!). * **Cord Cover/Raceway:** Run vertically down the side of the fireplace surround (paint to match). * **Power Outlet Behind TV:** The cleanest solution (if possible) is having an electrician install an outlet directly behind the TV location above the fireplace. Requires running power *inside* the wall properly. Pair this with an in-wall kit for low-voltage cables down to equipment elsewhere. * **Cable Management Kit + Mantel:** Bundle cords neatly behind TV and route them straight down behind the mantel if it's deep enough to conceal them.
My cord cover keeps falling off! How do I make it stick?
Adhesive fails for common reasons: * **Dirty Wall:** Clean the area thoroughly with rubbing alcohol and let dry. * **Textured Wall:** Adhesive strips hate texture. Use a raceway designed for screws instead, or try heavy-duty double-sided tape (like 3M VHB) rated for the weight. * **Humidity/Heat:** Behind TVs gets warm. Ensure the adhesive is rated for higher temps. * **Too Heavy:** A wide raceway full of heavy cables might need screw mounting. Don't overload adhesive-only solutions.
Is it safe to run cables behind baseboards?
It *can* be done, but it's often not ideal: * **Fire Hazard:** If the cable isn't rated for in-wall use (CL2/CL3 for signal, special kit for power) and there's a fire, insurance might deny claims. * **Damage Risk:** Cables can get pinched when baseboards are nailed back or damaged during floor cleaning. * **Access Issues:** Makes it very hard to retrieve or replace a cable later. Stick to surface raceways or proper in-wall methods for safety and practicality.
How much does professional installation cost?
Costs vary wildly by location, complexity, and the pro (electrician vs. AV installer). Expect **$250 to $600+** for a basic in-wall power kit and cable run installation. Getting multiple quotes is smart. Tell them exactly what you want done (e.g., "Install Legrand Plug-In Kit and run 2 HDMI cables down the wall").
Can I use zip ties instead of velcro?
You *can*, but I strongly prefer **hook-and-loop velcro straps** (like one-wrap). Why? Zip ties are permanent. If you need to add, remove, or replace a single cable, you have to cut the zip tie and replace it. Velcro is reusable and easily adjustable. Zip ties can also overtighten and damage cable jackets over time.
What's the easiest way overall?
For most people wanting a noticeable improvement without major work? A **screw-mounted metal cord cover/raceway**, painted to match the wall. It's relatively easy, durable, looks clean, and doesn't rely on adhesive. It strikes a good balance between effort and aesthetics for hiding cords on a wall mounted TV.
Getting It Done: My Final Nuggets of Wisdom
Hiding those TV cords isn't rocket science, but it does take a bit of planning and the right approach. The biggest mistake I see? People rushing in without thinking about safety (power cords!) or their wall type. Measure twice, cut once – mentally and physically.
Start simple if you're unsure. A decent cord cover is a massive upgrade over dangling wires. See if that satisfies you before tackling drywall. Honestly, for many setups, it's plenty good enough. If you crave that flawless look and own the place, the in-wall method is unbeatable – just respect the power cable rules and don't be afraid to call a pro if fishing wires through walls sounds like torture.
Whichever path you choose on your journey to hide cords on your wall mounted TV, take your time, do it safely, and enjoy that clean, uncluttered look when you're done. It makes a bigger difference than you think!
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