Let's be real – when you think of Thai islands, everyone blabs about Phuket or Krabi. But what if I told you the real magic happens on the other side? The south east Thailand islands are where you'll find beaches without elbow wars for space, where locals remember your coffee order by day three, and where "island time" isn't just a slogan. I spent six weeks hopping these shores last year, and honestly? I came back with sand in my shoes and a serious case of why-didn't-I-come-sooner regret.
Why These Islands Deserve Your Attention
Picture this: You're floating in bath-warm water so clear you count fish without goggles. No cruise ships blotting the horizon. No touts shoving menus in your face. That's the everyday reality here. Unlike the overexposed Andaman coast, south east Thailand islands operate on chill mode. We're talking:
- Actual Thai culture: Fishermen still mend nets at dawn in Koh Chang
- Value: $8 beachfront massages that last an hour
- Accessibility: Multiple daily ferries from Bangkok or even Siem Reap
My first sunrise swim on Koh Mak – just me and a curious hermit crab – convinced me this coastline plays in a different league.
Meet the Main Players
Each south east Thailand island has its own personality. Like people, some you'll love instantly, others take time. Here's the real-deal lowdown:
Koh Chang: The Jungle Giant
Don't let the size fool you – this island's got soul. White Sand Beach (yes, literally) dazzles, but I preferred lonely Kai Bae Beach. Saw waterfalls that made me feel tiny. Hiked trails where monkeys judged my fitness level. Practical stuff:
- Getting there: Trat Airport (flight from BKK ≈ $50) + 30-min ferry ($2)
- Sleep cheat code: BB Lonely Beach (hammock huts $12/night, air-con bungalows $35)
- Must-do: Klong Plu Waterfall (opens 8am-5pm, entry 200 baht ≈ $6)
Downside? Some parts feel overbuilt. Skip the east coast if you hate concrete.
Koh Mak: The Time Capsule
This palm-fringed pancake of sand is what Thai islands looked like 30 years ago. Zero traffic lights. One ATM. Bliss. Ao Suan Yai Beach? Powder that squeaks underfoot. Key facts:
- Access: Ferry from Laem Ngop (near Trat) ≈ 1.5 hours ($10)
- Stay: Koh Mak Resort (seaview villa ≈ $70) has insane sunset decks
- Eat: Bamboo Hut's garlic shrimp – trust me, order double
Power naps happen daily. Bring books, not party shoes.
Koh Kood: The Robinson Crusoe Dream
Thailand's easternmost island feels beautifully abandoned. Waterfalls cascade into natural pools. Beaches stretch empty for miles. Reality check:
- Transport: Speedboat from Trat (1 hour, $25) or slow boat (2.5 hours, $15)
- Stay: Soneva Kiri if you're fancy ($$$), Klong Chao Garden homestays ($25) for realness
- Secret spot: Ao Tapao Beach – bring picnic, claim entire bay
Mosquitoes are vicious at dusk. DEET is your deity.
When to Visit South East Thailand Islands
Weather dictates everything here. November to February is gold – sunny, breezy, perfect. March to May heats up (35°C+) but ocean's heavenly. June to October? Roll dice.
During rainy season last September, I got stranded three days on Koh Wai when ferries stopped. Magical? Yes. Cheap? Absolutely. But had to survive on instant noodles when supplies ran low.
| Season | Pros | Cons | Price Level |
|---|---|---|---|
| Nov-Feb (High) | Perfect weather, calm seas | Crowds, 30-50% pricier | ★★★★☆ |
| Mar-May (Shoulder) | Fewer people, warm water | Hotter, some haze | ★★★☆☆ |
| Jun-Oct (Low) | Empty beaches, lowest prices | Unpredictable rain, boat cancellations | ★☆☆☆☆ |
Getting Around Without Tears
Saw too many tourists melt down over transport. Don't be that guy. Key routes:
| Route | Best Transport | Duration | Cost (approx) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Bangkok to Koh Chang | Minivan + ferry combo | 5-6 hours | $15-$20 |
| Koh Chang to Koh Mak | Speedboat (departs 10am daily) | 1 hour | $25 |
| Koh Mak to Koh Kood | Shared longtail boat | 45 mins | $10 |
Pro tip: Buy combo tickets at Trat's bus station. Saves headaches.
Where to Splurge and Where to Save
Your baht goes far here if you're smart. Breakdown from my last trip:
Daily Budget Real Talk (per person)
- Backpacker: $25-40 (dorm bed, street food, local transport)
- Mid-range: $60-100 (AC bungalow, restaurant meals, scooter rental)
- Luxury: $200+ (villa with pool, fine dining, private tours)
Surprise expenses? National park fees hurt. Koh Chang's Mu Ko Chang NP charges 200 baht ($6) per entry. Koh Kood's waterfalls cost 100-200 baht.
Activities That Don't Suck
Skip generic snorkel tours. Here's what's actually worth your time:
Must-Do Experiences
- Koh Chang jungle trekking: Klong Prao Trekking Center (half-day ≈ $30)
- Koh Mak squid fishing: Go with local fishermen at dusk (≈ $15, includes BBQ!)
- Koh Kood kayaking: Paddle through mangrove tunnels at Klong Chao (rental $5/hour)
Tried a fancy "island hopping tour" from Koh Chang. Big mistake. Overcrowded boat, rushed stops. Better to rent a kayak and explore coves yourself.
South East Thailand Islands FAQ
Are these islands good for families?
Absolutely. Koh Mak and Koh Chang's west coast have shallow bays perfect for kids. Saw families building sandcastles for hours. Avoid super remote islands without clinics though.
Which south east Thailand islands have the whitest sand?
Hands down Koh Mak's Ao Suan Yai and Koh Kood's Klong Chao Beach. Like walking on flour. Bring sunnies – the glare is real.
Is it easy to island-hop between these?
Easier than you think. Daily boats connect major islands Nov-May. But always confirm schedules locally – they change like the wind. June-Oct? Expect disruptions.
Can I find decent wifi?
Surprisingly yes in towns. Koh Chang's White Sand Beach has cafes with strong signals. Koh Mak? Spotty. Koh Kood's hills = dead zones. Embrace disconnection.
Insider Advice You'll Thank Me For
- Pack reef shoes – sea urchins love rocky areas
- Withdraw cash BEFORE island arrivals (ATMs scarce on small islands)
- Learn basic Thai phrases – "Ao pad kra-prao kai" (chicken basil rice) saves hangry meltdowns
Southeast Thailand's islands aren't flawless. Power cuts happen. Ants invade your snacks. But that's travel, right? When you're floating in bioluminescent waters off Koh Rang or sharing grilled fish with locals who don't see you as a walking wallet... yeah. You'll get it. These islands keep the promise paradise forgot elsewhere.
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